Reflections from Hellas

This past summer, if you recall the witty brief message I sent, my wife and I went to Greece for a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Four days were spent on an island and four days in the capital. Our friends thought we had taken leave of our senses, concerned over the constant bombardment of negative news that still emanates from the home of Aeschylus and Aristotle. We even spoke to a friend who lived there for over twenty years. He said he would not go. So, it was not without a little trepidation that we hopped the Atlantic and took a very tiny flight from Madrid to Athens for a two week vacation. What we found was a reaffirmation of not always heeding "words of wisdom" and trusting instincts in the face of dire warnings. What we experienced will stay with us for the rest of our lives. 

On the island of Milos, we discovered a part of Greece that few get the chance to explore – a relatively tourist free spot. I say relative because compared to the Meccas of Athens and Mykonos and Santorini, Milos is quiet and calm. The tourists that are there are largely Greek. Those qualities allowed us to experience what might be closer to the Greek island life. The people on this island are involved in one of three major endeavors – farming/fishing, mining and tourism.

The people were wonderful but in this place which has suffered from the economic turmoil (certainly more so than the sexier islands and places like Athens), they are stressed and tired and worried. In normal conversation, the economy creeps in like an unwanted but accepted guest. When the economy is mentioned, it is not done to elicit sympathy. The Greeks are beyond that. Instead, the Greeks we spoke with seemed to exude a regret that our experiences are not "real Greek" experiences because the people are typically care-free and relaxed. Today, the Greeks are anything but. Still, their hospitality and kindness and desire to show what it is to be a Greek drive their efforts and we benefited.

In Athens, one gets the sense that nothing is the matter. Tourists crawl and emerge from every crook and cranny of the sweltering city (it was the summer). They scramble up the Acropolis like ants and for the Greeks living in the capital, the tourists drive the economy along with shipping. The problem with getting in touch with Greece in Athens is that what drives one’s visit steers one away from chances to mingle with the denizens. Still, we did our best to explore the alleyways and neighborhoods that are not necessarily on the tourist map. We were once more struck by the combination of an earnest desire to make our experiences great and the worry associated with the economic problems. The Greeks are fiercely proud of their history and traditions so those that go out of the way to see, not just the Acropolis but other lesser known bits of history are greeted with the best of Greek hospitality and helpfulness.

However, behind all of this is perhaps the growing realization that they are part of the problem. The Greeks have taken tax dodging to an art form and the results are devastating. Greece is in a perpetual downward cycle of desperately needing money, cutting the budget, fighting corruption and attempting to strike the rock of public revenue to save itself. However, the Greeks continue to refuse to give up their money, don’t trust the Greek government to handle it well (and there is large evidence to support that) and the country continues to teeter on the precipice. It is likely a problem that will not be solved any time soon. The Greeks have endured tough times before. They embrace it with what Nietzsche called amor fati or "love of fate." I have no doubt they can do it again but changes will need to be made.

Still, if I have a lasting piece of advice, it is this – if you’ve ever had the desire to go to Greece, do so and forego the nay-sayers. It is difficult to imagine a more hospitable, historical and transcending experience and the country needs the business. The Greeks want you to love their country as much as they do and will do what is necessary to ensure your good experiences. The history can be overwhelming as there is so much of it but do not let that discourage you. A little reading and advanced research will do wonders to your greater appreciation and you will be 40% cooler knowing Greek history and mythology. Taken together, the experience will leave you at the airport in Athens, preparing to leave, asking yourself if you really need to. It is a good sign.